How to Overcome Counter-Surfing
We all have situations where our dog has learned the rules (or so we think), then one day violates them. Counter-surfing leaps to mind first, but there are many others.
If Bailey is standing up at counters and tables to see what’s up there, which may smell really tempting, and manages to grab something delicious—or even a paper napkin that started a chase —don’t blame the dog.
Consequences drive behavior. This is a fundamental law of behavior science.
First, consider that scavenging is what dogs have done forever, as a species. It’s natural. And so we can meet that need with puzzle toys etc. and also prevent counter-surfing with good management. This is much easier than trying to rehabilitate a persistent counter-surfer. Because if a behavior has worked before (i.e., the outcome was good for the dog), without intervention (see below), it will be repeated—no matter how many times you try to “correct” it with NO!
Corrections come too late. And what you do after the jump (or whatever) just isn’t as effective as teaching what To DO, that is, keeping four feet on the floor and not grabbing food (or pills, hair scrunchies, etc.) that are within your dog’s reach. Unless you make the correction really aversive, which for sensitive dogs can be just yelling at her. For those who aren’t deterred by that, the punishment approach (aka corrections) is a slippery slope.
Dogs Are Scavengers by Nature
Although humans were conditioned to believe that dogs should only eat what we put in their bowls, many thousands of years as scavengers and survivors gave them the natural abilities to seek out food wherever it lies (or what some might consider food!).
Just shopping! the counter-surfer might say. And remember that the smell of food, especially meat, is a powerful temptation for any dog, even well-mannered ones.
Reinforcement Makes (any) Behavior Stronger
Behavior science also tells us that when a behavior has been reinforced with something the animal values, it’s very likely to be repeated. So if counter-surfing is successful, even once, it can quickly become a habit.
As the species with more advanced thinking and opposable thumbs, we have the responsibility—and definitely the motivation—to not let our dogs ever be successful in this situation.
When instinct and opportunity come together, and food is just inches away, is it reasonable to believe that Bailey shouldn’t grab it, just because he’s supposed to know that it’s “wrong”?
If a dog has already been successful at getting food and other valuable items off higher surfaces, I would say it’s totally reasonable in his mind to seize the opportunity. This does not make him a bad dog. This is a dog who needs safe scavenging opportunities (enrichment), Leave It training, and better management.
What You Can DoAbout It
Management, enrichment, and training will prevent counter-surfing (and many other “bad” behaviors) from becoming a habit in the first place.
This approach will also help rehabilitate the repeat offender. But understand that it could always pop up again, given the right conditions: a combination of past reinforcement, current conditions (opportunity), and degree of motivation (it’s meat and he’s hungry!).
1. Management would be things like gating or tethering your dog out of the kitchen or putting him in his own space (crate) or on his mat (stationing) while you’re cooking or eating—and also giving him something else to do. See Enrichment.
2. Enrichment would include chewing and licking, two strong instinctive canine needs that also pay off for us—with better behavior—when we provide them regularly and strategically. I’m not talking about Nylabones that your dog usually ignores, but real, unadulterated edible chews such as tendons, bully sticks, beef cheeks, and hard-cheese bones (Himalayans, for example).
Kongs, Licki-Mats, and many other food toys can be filled with your dog’s meal and/or some soft, healthy foods (yogurt, peanut butter, wet dog food) that your dog enjoys. Like chews, these can keep your dog busy and happy while you’re cooking or eating, maybe both. Eventually, you won’t need the crate or tether anymore.
3. Training would include impulse control, starting with something not very exciting, like a piece of kibble, and gradually working up to the Gold Challenge: meat on the counter or the table. It can be done in a totally positive way and without nagging, Leave It, Leave It, Leave It!
If you don’t have the time or patience for training, then using management plus enrichment can go a long way to resolving the issue. What doesn’t work is expecting your dog to ignore instinct, temptation, and a history of reinforcement.
Copyright Lisa Benshoff 2021
